First impressions are formed within 100 milliseconds to 7 seconds, what can the human eye perceive and process so quickly? Your facial expressions and body language come second; first, comes your way of dressing. The clothes you choose to wear every day is your way of nonverbally communicating to the world. You communicate your personality, your profession (or lack thereof) and even your approachability with the colors and patterns you choose. So, it goes without saying that what you wear should be in your control yet, that has not been the case for numerous women throughout history.
The existing patriarchal system hasn’t left any field untouched in their attempt at subjugating women; from bigger things like roles women should have in a society to minute things like the way women should sit. Patriarchy has suffocated women not only socially and mentally but physically as well. Many may question this but then how do you explain women’s clothing getting more comfortable with every feminist wave?
The setting is of the French court in the 19th century, women of the aristocracy have recently adopted something into their everyday life which has prevented them from performing basic tasks like sitting down comfortably, bending to pick something up or even breathing. The S-bent corset has become a symbol to your status in the society.
“Designed to push your booty back and your bust out by literally reshaping your spine, made with metal and a lace back to sinch in your ribs, lungs and waist just how the men of money like it. But not just that, pair a puffy wired underskirt with it – which makes it even more uncomfortable for you to simply exist in – and you have a winning outfit which will get you the right attention.”
Now, who would buy into that ad today, no one. The women of the 19th century loved it, so much so that it took over Europe like storm. With no right to have any profession of their own and having little allowance for their involvement in society, women were deep into boredom. What came out of this boredom was a new profession approved by the Victorian society. And that was pleasing the eye of the men. The Southern Belle or the Hourglass Figure was introduced, the ideal feminine figure with tiny waists, blooming busts – which shrunk your ribs and lungs together – and a puffy backside.
The late 19th and early 20th centuries came with the suffragette movement and with it arrived women’s first chance to free themselves of this physical torture. The concept of The Gibson Girl came from American writers and painters putting women in bloomers and trousers. Even though, this concept did gain a lot of popularity on paper, it was a struggle to adopt it in the same numbers. The World War II changed that drastically.
After the men went off to fight the war, women were forced out of the house to maintain a functioning society and pick up the jobs the men had left. Mix this with the shortage of cloth because of the war, straight skirts were embraced. Straight skirts landing just below the knee in plain garments, fashion was moving farther away from the male gaze and towards practicality.
Additionally, a large number of women were assisting in the war effort and often in uniformed overalls. Though these overalls did not translate back to the society yet, it did open minds to pants being another option for women.
The last push was the second wave of feminism. Men were back from the war and women were out of the house and their control. Women now had a voice, if that voice was heard or not did not matter. Women started wearing miniskirts, sparking a big scandal and after the hippy movement of the 70s, pants became normal everyday wear for women.
Today, because of the struggle and fight of all those who came before, women stand free of the colonizing male gaze. They dress for comfort, convenience and the beauty they find in their own eyes. Fighting their way out of the metal mental corsets of the 19th century, women find elegance in the flowy fabric of linen.
Fashion has proved to be one of the many agents of patriarchy. It is very recognizable now; however, it wasn’t so in the past. Many of these agents of patriarchy still lurk in our lives today, try looking for one and you’ll find yourself deep in many. But let that thought go for another 2 a.m. spiral and raise your glasses today to all those who fought for our right to breathe freely.
Ashi Dahiya
Publishing & Editorial Lead
Burrow
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